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Performance Makeup and Skincare with Kayla

Kayla Kernel, our resident makeup artist and skincare expert, and I discuss the use of makeup in the dance team world:  how it can enhance your routine, the difference between game day looks and competition, and how to master those pesky false eyelashes.  The last part of the podcast is dedicated to anti-aging and Kayla breaks down what should be part of every skincare routine.  Here are the highlights:  

Performance makeup:  “It still needs to be pretty close up. The biggest points of difference is your game day look is going to be focused more on working in thin layers, making it sweat proof, making sure that it’s going to last with humidity and with competition looks there can be a theme with it so  it has to be part of the performance.   You have to take into consideration what you’re wearing.  With each look there needs to be a clear focus  so you don’t want to do a bold eye, bold cheek, bold lip.  You can still have all those components present, but there needs to be a clear focus because when you have all of them on the face: a bold eye, a bold lip, a bold brow;  that’s when you look crazy.”

“The other thing you have to take into consideration is lighting, which you don’t have to do that quite as much with game day because you’re going to be in natural lighting, so a tip that I would offer is have your girls do their makeup and take a picture with the flash and then where things get washed out, which is usually the cheek, but where things get washed out that’s where they need to add a little bit more, but still keep it blended.  It’s probably going to be more than what they would wear in their everyday, but it’s really helpful.”  

Game day makeup:  I would say with game day looks the key is to make sure that your team members prep their skin. Start with clean skin, start with a moisturizer, because that’s really what’s going to set the canvas and make it so the makeup just doesn’t slide off or soak into the skin. So definitely skin prep is gonna be huge and it doesn’t mean you need to do a million things, but just starting with clean skin and a fresh moisturizer. With your foundation it is helpful to get a long wear foundation, something that specifically says long wear.  Either it’ll say long wear or it’s going to say something like 12 hour, 15 hour wear, 24 hour wear.  You definitely need some sort of eye.  You can easily get some sort of neutral smoky palette.  I personally am partial to false lashes.  They’re not for everybody, you might not need them, but they do make a big difference.”

“You do want the makeup to be pretty and you want it to be timeless, so i personally don’t recommend a really strong eyeliner wing, but again decide what’s best for your team.  They also need to fill in those brows.  You don’t have to go crazy, but a filled in brow makes a difference.”

“So for the cheek, the only thing that I would say that’s a must-have for the cheek is blush, and then if your girls want to add a contour or bronzer or highlight those are all just icing on the cake, and they’re not going to hurt anything, but I would say the blush is going to have the most impact on the look because it you can add shape. You can add life back in, you can add color to help tie the eye and the lip together.  And then with your lip, everyone’s going to be different with lip.  I think that mauve or berries tend to be most flattering with team colors and with most people because they look natural.”  

Do dancers who wear lots of makeup multiple times a week have to do something special with their skincare routine?  Well, first of all makeup is formulated so that it’s not necessarily hard on the skin, so I don’t want people thinking this is bad for me, what i’m doing to my complexion by putting on this full coverage long wear foundation.  That’s not true.  My normal foundation is a full coverage foundation that I usually wear.   I wouldn’t say that it requires necessarily extra steps.  Your basic skin care routine is going to be to cleanse and moisturize, a.m. and p.m. and exfoliate two to three times a week, and that’s your basic, basic, basic.   I would say the difference if you are wearing a lot of makeup is you have to have something to take it off.  When i wear full coverage it’s a multi-step process to take it off, and I’m not alien number three in a routine.  So removal is going to be key for these dancers.  There’s this concept called double cleanse and it’s nothing new, but the double cleanse means that you cleanse first to remove your makeup and you cleanse second for your skin,  so your cleansing oils, your cleansing balms, micellar waters, makeup wipes.   Any of them at the end of the day will get the job done, but cleansing oils tend to be better for oily skin because oil attracts oil.”  

Exfoliate thyself:  “I think that it’s interesting because I work with a lot of clients, and most people use a physical exfoliator and not a chemical exfoliator, and so the difference is physical exfoliators are the ones with the beads in them and they aren’t great for your skin.  The better one to do is a chemical exfoliant and that sounds scary, but that’s going to be something with a glycolic or a lactic or salicylic, depending on your skin type and your concern, but that’s what’s actually going to get results and that’s what’s actually going to exfoliate more on a cellular level  as opposed to my rotating brush. That more so just gives you a light massage and i use my brush too a couple times a week.  With chemical exfoliation, you still want to stick to the two to three times a week.  You don’t want to exfoliate every single day because it’s too much of a good thing and it messes with the skin texture, it can mess with the acid mantle that’s on the surface, and in turn make you drier or more oily, so that’s why just that two to three times a week is just a good rule to live by.”  

Dealing with skincare overwhelm:   “I think that it can be really overwhelming, but just insert those things here and there, use your retinol a couple times a week, use your chemical exfoliant a couple of times a week.  Compare skin care to a healthy diet and exercise.   You can eat an apple and work out one day, maybe two days,  and then fall off.  You have to be consistent with it to see results.”

Ingredient breakdown:  “Retinol is  the gold standard when it comes to anti-aging skin care.  Basically what it does is it speeds up cell turnover, it also helps with acne too.”

“Hyaluronic acid is in a lot of skin care now, you may have seen that ingredient pop up. It sounds like it’s scary, it’s not a scary acid.  All it does is bond moisture to skin, so moisturizer is something that helps create moisture to put into your skin and hyaluronic acid helps keep the moisture  in your skin, it helps it stay put.”

“Think of Vitamin C as a BLT:   it brightens, lightens, and it tightens.”

“Peptides  add pep to your skin, so  if you were going to touch your skin and make it bounce, that’s your collagen production, so peptides add pep and they help with collagen.”

“Salicylic acid:  think of it as  a roto-rooter for your pores. It’s something that really helps exfoliate, helps clean out pores, and it’s better if you have more oily or acneic skin.  So if i don’t have oily skin, salicylic acid is not necessarily for you.  Salicylic acid helps dissolve skin that’s on the surface and that sounds scary ,but anything that you buy over the counter is not going to burn your skin off,  I promise. What benzoyl peroxide does, I’m going to get a little scientific here, but the reason why you see that in a lot of spot treatments is that  when you put it on something it actually inserts oxygen into the the clogged pore and when oxygen touches or when it gets to the bacteria that’s in there, it kills it, so that’s where the oxide comes from.”

“Alpha hydroxy acid is your exfoliator that helps with more fine lines and wrinkles, and glycolic and lactic are your most common ones, but  a good rule of thumb is salicylic is better for oily and glycolic and lactic are better for anti-aging and wrinkles.”